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Alstroemeria is our specialty. Here are some planting suggestions.

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Alstroemeria: Plant Culture

   Planting Time:

   Bloom period:

   Exposure:

   Spacing, depth:

   Soil:

   Fertilization:

   Watering:

   Soil temperature:

Acidanthera

Amarcrinum

Amaryllis Belladonna

Crocosmia

Freesia Alba

Sporaxis

Watsonia

Read more about Alstroemerias:

Conclusions about Environmental Requirements

Alstroemeria species and hybrids

 

Alstroemeria Culture:

Best time to plant:

Plant Alstroemerias in the early spring or mid-Fall when soil temperatures are above 50° F. All but ligtu and aurea can be divided year-round. Both ligtu and aurea are best dug in early to mid-Spring when substantial growth of the clumps is apparent.

Bloom period:

Alstroemeria begin flowering in late April with the major bloom period in June and July. For most selections, blooming continues through September.

Exposure:

Full sun or filtered sun, as under a birch tree, is satisfactory. Morning sun only works, too. Mid-day and afternoon shade during July and August encourages prolonged flowering and deeper pigmentation. Protect clumps from afternoon sun in warm climates, using 30 to 50 percent shade cloth.

Spacing and depth:

Plant clumps 1 to 2 inches deep about 20 to 36 inches apart. After three years, the clump may be sub-divided into at least four sections for transplanting elsewhere.

Soil:

A light, well-aerated, well-drained soil mix is essential. Clumps grow slowly if at all and are susceptible to fungal rot if they sit in heavy soggy soil. I think that poor drainage and excess moisture are the major reason for loss of Alstroemeria under heavy mulch in cold climates, not freezing.

I use a rich 70% organic (compost, wood chips and shredded bark), 30% perlite soil mix. The soil mix is spread on top of a mostly clay base with no intentional mixing of the two layers. The root systems of most alstroemeria penetrate several inches into the clay layer (which is moist year-round.) There is never any problem with excessive growth or invasive behavior under these conditions.

Fertilization:

This is not critical for success. Alstroemeria is not a heavy feeder. Use a complete fertilizer, high in Nitrogen, after the first year.

Watering:

Keep the soil moist until sprouts appear. That should be about 2 weeks after planting, depending on the temperature of the soil (see below). Water the plants as frequently as you would an aster, chrysanthemum or tomato. They benefit from watering to replace water lost. Remember, the soil must be well-drained and porous which is ideal for all plants.

Although Alstroemerias have the reputation of being drought tolerant (many come from dry habitats in Chile) the hybrids perform best if they are irrigated in the growing season. High soil moisture is a benefit, providing that the soil be well aerated. Overwatering in excessively heavy soils will encourage rhizome rot in many cultivars.

Soil temperature:

60-65 F is near optimum for most species. In summer months, mulch and afternoon shade provide excellent growing conditions, particularly in flower gardens where rooting depths are rarely below one ft.

The alstroemeria that I experimented with went dormant when soil temperatures exceeded 70F and I've come to believe that that's another reason why clients fail with alstroemeria.

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Acidanthera Culture:

Acidanthera flowers in late fall and is dug in the winter. It is best to get them started in the spring, although I have planted them year-round. Treat like gladiolas, lifting corms after flowering and replant in spring.

Exposure: Full sun.

Spacing and Depth: Plant 3-5 corms about 3-6 inches deep in a growing space of about fifteen inches in diameter.

Water: Keep moist after foliage growth begins, reduce when foliage browns and dies back.

Origin: Mediterranean, Arabian peninsula, Northwest and East Africa, Western Asia.

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Amarcrinum Culture:

Amarcrinum flowers in the summer and has flowered through October. Best ordered in Fall, although I've dug and planted them year-round. I don't usually transplant as much in the winter unless it's warm enough to work outside. Amarcrinum is evergreen, and likes a well-drained soil similar to that for Alstroemeria.

Exposure: Full sun; partial shade in hot, sunny exposures. Likes mulch in winter.

Spacing and Depth: Cover with soil, leaving neck of bulb exposed. Leave growing space of twelve inches diameter.

Water: Keep moist after growth begins, but not overly wet.

In Containers: (Best for colder areas - zone 7 and below.) One bulb in a twelve inch (two gallon) container. Leave top third exposed.

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Amaryllis Belladonna Culture:

Amaryllis belladonna also flowers in the summer. I've dug and planted them year-round, probably not as much in the winter unless it's warm enough to work outside.

Exposure: Full sun; partial shade in hot, sunny exposures.

Spacing and Depth: Plant 5-6 inches deep, leaving neck exposed. Leave growing space of ten inches diameter.

Water: Keep moist after foliage growth begins, stop watering when it dies back in early summer. Keep dry while plants are dormant. Water again when flower stalks appear in late summer.

In Containers: (Best for colder areas - zone 7 and below.) One bulb in a twelve inch (two gallon) container. Leave top third exposed. Store dry at 60° F. during winter dormancy.

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Crocosmia Culture:

Crocosmia is summer flowering and has a wide window for planting and digging.

Exposure: Full sun or partial shade.

Spacing and Depth: Plant 3-4 inches deep in well drained soil. Leave growing space of ten inches diameter.

Water: Keep moist after foliage growth begins. Keep dry while plants are dormant.

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Freesia Alba Culture:

Freesia alba flowers in early spring and is dug in June where late winter and early spring frosts are common. Freesia should be planted late in winter so that emergence of tender foliage comes after the last spring frost.

In climates where mid-fall emergence is common (true in Davis), with frequent early and late winter and early spring freezes, it is best to plant corms in late winter or early spring because the emerged foliage is killed by the freezes. This has happened to me frequently and as a consequence I have lost not only spring bloom but thousands of corms for the following year.

Exposure: Full sun.

Spacing and Depth: Plant 2 inches deep. Plant 10-12 in a twelve inch diameter area.

Water: Keep moist after foliage growth begins, reduce watering after flowers finish in early summer. Keep dry while plants are dormant during summer. Water again when leaf growth appears in late summer.

In Containers: (Best for colder areas - zone 8 and below.) Plant a dozen bulbs in a twelve inch container. Feed regularly as long as shoots are present. Store dry at 60° F. during summer dormancy and watch for growth in mid-fall.

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Sparaxis Culture:

Sparaxis flowers in early spring and is dug in June. I usually plant them in early fall.

Exposure: Full sun.

Spacing and Depth: Plant about four inches deep. Place three or four in a growing space of twelve inches diameter.

Water: Water sparingly while in growth. Withhold water through winter dormancy.

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Watsonia Culture:

Watsonia flowers in the spring; it is most successfully dug in the fall and planted in the spring although I have planted them year-round.

Exposure: Full sun.

Spacing and Depth: Plant 4-5 inches deep in well-drained soil. Plant 2-3 per square foot. Mulch in frost-prone areas.

Water: Water freely during summer. Keep dry while plants are dormant during fall-winter. Water again when flower stalks appear in spring.

In Containers: (Best for colder areas - zone 8 and below.) Use deep container and support tall stalks if grown in container. keep slightly moist during winter dormancy.

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